Do You Know Any Technical Drawings?
The first two weeks of school are already over, and although there are some organizational challenges, we have already been learning quite a few things 🙂
Often our teachers would say something like,
- If you custom sew something for a client,…
- If you need to sew some samples,…
- If you need to alter a garment,…
Did you realize, in how many areas a custom tailor can work? We can be the ones to take the measurements, draft the pattern and sew a garment. Or we are the ones who “only” finish some parts based on instructions. Or we can alter and modify garments.
The custom tailor has quite a varied life 🙂
And of course that’s by far not all. So I got curious, what we would learn in the upcoming weeks and started to do some look up.
CUSTOM TAILOR SHORT DESCRIPTION
The custom tailor’s tasks are to make serial and custom clothing based on technical documentation, as well as other products like bedding and curtains, home decoration, clothing alteration and reparation.
A custom tailor is able to :
understand a technical documentation and its drawings
choose a commercial pattern and alter it to fit his clients and producers special requirements
understand measures and measure tables
draft basic slopers
draft sewing patterns from slopers
do cutting and tailoring preparational works
work with fusibles
work with the ironing station
work with industrial machines
sew together parts based on technologial instructions
do finishing works
make custom clothes based on the individual wishes of the clients, as well as alterations and give advise
And the first point is something that we even discussed in several lessons. The understanding of the technical documentation and its drawings.
WHAT IS A TECHNICAL DOCUMENTATION AND TECHNICAL DRAWINGS?
Well, if you need the exact definition you might want to check Wikipedia. But to put it very simple, the technical documentation contains the full instructions to put a garment together.
That also means it contains different types of technical drawings. The apparel industry uses the following drawings. As I don’t know the exact the names of these in English, I put the Hungarian names next to them :
- fashion drawing (modellrajz)
- flat sketch (gyártmáynrajz)
- detail drawing (részletrajz)
- part drawing(alkatrészrajz)
- laying drawing (felfektetési rajz)
- action drawing (művelet rajz)
- sectional drawing according to ISO 4916(metszeti rajz)
- axonometrical sectional drawing according to ISO 4916 (axonometrikus metszeti rajz)
When I first heard about technical documentation and technical drawings, I thought that I surely never had seen something like that. This would be something that they only use in industry and you don’t face in everyday life.
That’s just partially correct. If I go into a shop to buy a dress (what else 😉 ) than I really won’t see any technical drawings.
But if I buy the sewing pattern, than there are a tons of drawings, We might even say that the instruction is kind o the technical documentation. Of course not 100%, but let’s see in an example.
TECHNICAL DRAWINGS IN COMMERCIAL SEWING PATTERNS
I have a Vogue sewing pattern here, but of course you’ll find many of these drawing also in other companies sewing patterns. The pattern V8766 is for a dress that can be sewn in different versions, that are shown on the envelope’s front. We might say these are the fashion drawings. Those are usually drawn on a body, front and back, they can be colored or have a pattern.
On the envelope we will also find the flat sketch. That is also the front and back and shows the garment lying flat in closed condition. The drawing is proportional and needs to show every sewing line, buttons, top stitching, zipper,…. The outer lines are thicker, than the dart lines, any top stitching or visible sewing is shown with a dashed line.
The details drawing is like the flat sketch, and shows a part of the garment in detail if that can’t be seen on the drawing, but is important for the construction, like some inner pockets.
The part drawings together form actually the sewing pattern. One of our teacher said, that a strip of paper is no waistband part drawing, unless it is marked as one, the size is on it, it states how many pieces need to be cut, the grain is marked, all seam allowances are added and all notches and awl punches are visible. Here is an example of he back bodice part drawing.
The layout drawing shows how the part drawings should be laid on the fabric to have the least wastage of fabric. Most commercial patterns have a drawing like this.
In most instructions you won’t only find text, but also numerous action drawing that show you what to do.
The last two drawings are the sectional and axonometric sectional drawing of the seam types according to ISO 4916, whereas the axonometric is simply kind of the 3D version.
Here are both version of a simple stitched seam.
At Coatsindustrial you can find a pretty nice summary of the different types and classes.
WHAT ARE ALL THESE DIFFERENT TYPES OF technical DRAWINGS GOOD FOR?
It makes sense to have a drawing of your planned garment first, so you can see if you actually like it, if you like the placement of the buttons or the topstitching before investing lots of time and money and realize you don’t even like it. It also makes production a lot easier. The biggest advantage is that no matter who and where made the pattern, it really doesn’t matter if I speak the same language, as only based on the drawings I will be able to sew the garment exactly as it was intended 🙂
In the beginning I was a bit confused about all the different types of drawings and considering how many sectional drawings for the different seam types are, its really a lot to learn. But on the other hand, if you think logically about them, they are not really difficult and makes it a lot easier, than trying to explain a sewing action in words.
What do you think? Are they rather confusing or helpful?
Did you like this post? Follow the blog and never miss a new entry. Furthermore, I’ll send you my tutorial for the super practical wrist pinushion!