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Side Seam Pocket

Side seam Pockets and Zippers – Is that even possible?

Fine, I will admit what my fellow students suspected for some time now.

I am OBSESSED with side seam pockets!!

Honestly, I can’t have enough of them 😀

Actually, it was until a few days ago, that I didn’t really care about them. In fact, making the bellow pockets for my son’s short was rather a frustrating experience. I was swearing so much, that in the next lesson I seriously apologized to my fellow students, as they had to listen it all. Also, all that pressing of the patch pockets wasn’t fun. And the lining of the lined patch pockets did have little squares from the clipping the curve (ok, nothing you can see, but I KNOW it), so overall pockets weren’t my favorite subject.

But then we did this side seam pockets!! A beautiful, clean, crisp , sharp looking seam with a pocket… nice!

And once I forget the bellow pocket drama and watched my little cutie in his new shorts (see last post)…. Seriously, have you ever seen a more casual little guy? 😀 Even the bellow and patch pockets started to look cool.

So, now I got pocket fever and looked for some inspiration. I pulled out the Christmas present from hubby and checked the section, that was rather ignored until now. This beautiful book called Vintage Details A Fashion Sourcebook is full of amazin close ups.

Vintage Details

Vintage Pockets

Vintage Pockets

Vintage Pockets

Aren’t these pockets just GORGEOUS? Oh, they are!!

Of course, now I need to know everything about pockets. Of course….

Hence I pulled out the rest of my sewing library to review the technique we used to sew the side seam pockets and got surprised. While there were tons of different pocket techniques, none of them was describing the way we were taught.

And more interestingly, the way it is described in the books is far easier.

The Easy-Peasy way

Basically you put each of the four pocket bags right sights together on the skirt front and back pieces and sew them down between the marks. Then you press the bag to the opposite side and put now the front and back skirt (together with the attached pocket bags) rights side together. Start sewing at the top until you hit the pocket seam. Then pivot and sew around the outer edge of the the pocket back until you hit the end point of the first seam. Pivot again and sew the rest of the seam.. Done!

Easy Side Seam Pocket

Super simple, isn’t it?

Well, the way we were taught, was somewhat more complicated.

the “somewhat more complicated way”

We would place the pocket bags only to the skirt front and sew between the marks and clip right to the start and end point of the seam as close as possible without cutting into it. Next we pressed the seam to the pocket bag side and understitched between the marks. Now the pocket opening can be turned under and the second pocket bag can be placed on it. Sew the outer edge of the pocket together and leave the pocket opening open. Place the skirt back right sides together to the front and make a few stitches at the start and end point. Now you can sew the whole seam and make sure you hit exactly the points you just marked. You will also need to sew over the pocket,  but make sure you leave the pocket opening open.

Side Seam Pocket

It’s not rocket science, but obviously the versions from my books are easier. But guess what, there will be times, when I will still apply the version we learned at school.

Why the second version still totally rocks

Why should I go for the more complicate version? To be honest,  I didn’t knew the answer myself, until I saw this post from Butcher Sew Shop.

Imagine you want to put in an invisible zipper, just into the same place, where you also planned to have your side seam pockets. If you tried it with the technique of the first version, you would soon realize, that your zipper is not opening and closing you garment, but your pcoket.

Consequently, if you first sewed the pocket together, you can install the zipper and have both, a zipper and a pocket in the same side seam.

How cool is that?? I just love that idea.

Hope to test it soon on something 🙂

What is your favorite pocket? And don’t tell me you don’t like pockets after seeing all of these inspirations 🙂 I for myself will go and hunt some more pocket inspiration on Pinterest 🙂




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